The Yamahai brewing style emphasizes flavor, characterized by explosive aromatics, depth of flavor, and a subtle wildness. As global drinking trends move in favor of flavor forward beverages, this style of sake has a major opportunity on the international stage, especially with younger generations. Additionally, a major generational shift is happening as elder Tojis (master brewers) age out of the profession and their successors take the helm. So is the case at Tedorigawa where Toji Yashuyuki Yoshida is the 6th generation of his family to produce this traditional style of sake. The careful tweaks Yashuyuki is making at the family business are informed by his global perspective on drinking culture. Inspired by the natural wine movement and the concept of terroir, Tedorigawa is working toward producing a sake composed of 100% locally grown rice, local unprocessed water, and local yeast. This would be a real expression of their specific location, a rarity in the sake world.

We currently stock two sakes from Tedorigawa:

“U” U-Nique! – Tingling pink grapefruit acidity and lovely pear aroma at first sip, with a svelte texture achieved through the yamahai brewing method. We like to say it’s sake for Sauvignon Blanc drinkers!

Classification: Junmai
Rice variety: Ishikawamon
Yeast: House Yeast (Kanazawa Lineage)
Brewing method: Yamahai
Polishing ratio: 60%
Alcohol: 13%
Acidity: 1.2
SMV: -1.0

Yamahai Daiginjo Sake “Chrysanthemum Meadow” – Enticing imprint of honey and herbs at first sip, segueing at mid-range into a sake of surprising clarity. Supple, racy and eminently drinkable over long periods of time.

Classification: Daiginjo
Rice variety: Yamadanishiki, 500Mangoku
Yeast: House Yeast (Kanazawa Lineage)
Brewing method: Yamahai
Polishing ratio: 45%
Alcohol: 15-16%
Acidity: 1.2
SMV: +5.0

The vineyards are located upon loamy and clayey soil on the Gracciano hills. The grape varieties are the classical ones of Vino Nobile: Prugnolo Gentile (a clone of Sangiovese) and a small quantity of Canaiolo, Mammolo and Merlot. Through a drastic reduction of their yields (now only 35-40 hl/ ha), they have continued to improve quality each year. Over the last years the estate has changed all the vessels for wine ageing by utilizing new French and Slovenian oak casks and French tonneaux. Marco explained that the exclusive use of large format barrel is not only traditional to the region but assures that the wine can reflect its true character both varietally and geographically.

The winery is certified organic since 2018, something that Marco and feels is compulsory. This belief was passed down from his father’s side of the family who were pioneers in large scale biodynamic farming on their rice farm near Milan in the 1970s. Marco sits on the Demeter Board for biodynamic agriculture in the EU.

Gracciano is one of the few producers in Montepulciano to keep the traditional label of the consortium. Now, since many have abandoned this design, it is unique to them and they think it reflects what they do and the product they make: traditional, elegant, clean.

Looking forward…

Next year, Gracciano della Seta will release a new wine: Vino Nobile Pieve. A new designation created by the consortium to highlight the specificities of 12 different sub-areas within Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The first vintage will be 2020.

Great press on 2021 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano from Decanter magazine (via @decanter on instagram).

The Ford Family has a long history of stewardship and grape growing in Oregon dating back to the late 19th century. Illahe was founded by Lowell and Pauline Ford in 1983 with an inaugural planting of Muller-Thurgau on his family’s farm near Dallas, Oregon.

Today, Brad Ford is the President, Owner, Winemaker, and Vineyard Manager at Illahe. He describes that his job is simply to make delicious wines that have unique character. We think he does this quite spectacularly. Clearly detail oriented, Brad is always reaching back into the history of wine for hints and ideas on how to improve his craft. So far, his experiments have included working with horses, trying ferments in oak, acacia, and clay, and spending hours on the pedal-powered pump moving the 1899 wine from the fermenter to barrels. Brad’s wife, Bethany, manages sales and is responsible for growing their brand from regional to international recognition. Together they raise two young children, Beckett and Miette.

We take great pride in acting as a conduit between the Ford Family’s soulful Oregon wines and the dedicated families behind our restaurant and retail partners in Michigan.

Current Offerings:

“Bon Anno means “good year” in Italian and over three generations in the wine business, our family has had many good times.” – Matt Bonanno

Visit bonannowine.com to learn more.

We are pleased to announce that A.H.D. Vintners and i-lixir Beverage are merging operations. Last month our agreement was formalized, this month we are undertaking all manner of changes to streamline our work together in advance of the 4th quarter. We have hired all the i-lixir employees (excepting one driver who wished to take a reduced role). James Van Der Kolk will be taking on the role of Vice President while continuing to oversee the i-lixir portfolio and managing the sales team in West Michigan. We will maintain two price books for the foreseeable future. We now have a twenty-person sales team with plans to expand it further in 2023. We shall move the majority of product to our warehouse, in Warren this month, to pull and ship all orders from here starting September 26th. We shall maintain the Muskegon warehouse as a cross-dock facility enabling us to enhance the number of delivery days in West Michigan.

While each company came to this union at their healthiest state, the combined entity will offer complimentary product portfolios, enhanced account service in sales and delivery and a similar spirit in what we endeavor, to provide the highest quality and most profitable products and services to be found in Michigan.

Best Regards,

Anthony Delsener
President

During this critical period we are asking that you reach out to your Sales Representative with any specific procedures that you may require and we will adjust accordingly. On our end, we are asking you to assist in minimizing contact during delivery and allowing our staff to drop the order with a minimum of contact and as much distance that is reasonable.

If you are not already on EFT you can sign up at go.fintech.com as this will aid in minimizing contact at the point of delivery. Additionally, our product information is available on SevenFifty @ sevenfifty.com, which is a great tool to access our items and inventory while we are working through this period of social distancing.

Managing the spread of the virus is critical to all of us to get through this period with as little upheaval as possible. By working together we can make a significant impact on the community’s overall health and well-being.

From the United States, one of the original Rhone Rangers, Bill Easton and his wines from Terre Rouge.

Terre Rouge means “Red Earth”. This vermillion-colored soil is one of the hallmarks of the region. The vineyards are in soils that are largely granite and volcanic-based. The Terre Rouge portfolio is composed of wines made from Rhône varietals grown in the rugged and varying terroirs of this region: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne. High elevation sites up to 3200’ contribute to the complexity of the wines.

Winemaker, Bill Easton puts his family name, EASTON, on the  non Rhône varietals wines. The wines are crafted from varietals that have traditionally worked the best in Amador County and the Sierra Foothills: ancient and old-vine Zinfandel, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sauvignon Blanc.

The style of the reds emphasizes deep color, balanced flavors, full middle palate, and a long finish, with power and finesse. They gain complexity with age. The whites are aromatic, flavorful with nice texture, and balanced with good acidity. They also show an amazing mineral sense that is derived from our stony mountain soils. They make over thirty different wines, many of which are very small production (100-400 cases). Each is unique and site-specific with a sense of place all of their own.

From Burgundy, France and part of our Vineyard Brands Burgundy collection we celebrate Domaine Matrot and Vincent Girardin.

Domaine Matrot is run by fifth generation Thierry Matrot, after having obtained a degree in winegrowing and oenology in Beaune and continued with business studies in Mâcon Davayé. He joined the estate in 1976 and took over the vinification from 1983 on. Together with his father, he continued to strengthen the reputation of Domaine Matrot and its wines.

The Matrot philosophy is that a wine must be the reflection of its terroir and its vintage. The first step in preserving all of the different characteristics of the Matrot wines is to carry out careful and attentive work in the vineyards.  It is only thanks to the rigorous work carried out in the vineyards and in the cellars that his wines preserve their unique character.

Vincent Girardin was born in Santenay, in the Côte de Beaune and is part of a winemaking family whose origins date to the 17th century (11th generation).  Vincent began in 1982 with only 2 hectares (5 acres) of vines. When his father retired, Vincent took over several additional hectares to which he could devote himself.
Vincent Girardin is a man of conviction. He knows what he wants. He has grasped his profession firmly with both hands.

Vincent’s roots are deep in the most prestigious terroirs of Burgundy. He knows every vine, every parcel of land. He also ensures that the very highest quality is maintained by following each wine’s development every step of the way, at all times respecting the most important element of Burgundy – the individuality of its terroirs.  He has been fully Biodynamic since 2009.

Vega Sicilia from Ribera del Duero, Spain was also honored.

In 1864, Eloy Lecanda founded the winery that symbolizes the golden legend of Spanish red wine. Throughout its long history, it has belonged to different owners, although it has always maintained an unquestionable personality, making concentrated, mature, generous and extremely elegant.

Spain’s most famous and important wine estate is located at Valbuena del Duero, 30 km east of the ancient university town of Valladolid. The northern boundary of the estate is marked by the main road that runs along the left bank of the Duero (Douro) river – these rich soils are planted with vegetables rather than vines. The top of the hills are left to sheep, but in between are the vineyards, on north-facing slopes at altitudes of 750-800m above sea level.

Few wines have a history as distinguished as that of Vega Sicilia. Founded in the 1860’s, its top cuvée, Unico, was Spain’s first great Spanish wine collected and coveted throughout the world.

Unico is still made as it was a half century or more ago: a selection of only the best vintages released after a decade or more of age. Made from at least 80% Tempranillo and small amounts of Bordeaux varietals, it is a wine of epic proportions, known for great restraint in its youth but an almost unlimited cellaring potential.

Named the 2019 Winegrower of the year by Gambero Rosso, Francesco Cambria from Cottanera, seems to be enjoying good year rich in awards and recognition. In fact, today the Etna represents one of the most successful lands, not just for the Sicilian wine but for the Italian one too. The diligence and the resources involved by all the producers in the area in order to give value to the vineyards, the range of the local biodiversity, the microclimatic areas and last but not least the Volcano, give the wine a unique nature in its multiple variety.

Cottanera 2018 Etna Rosato (Rosé)

100% Nerello Mascalese from Contrada Diciassettesalme & Castiglione di Sicilia – 750 meters

Only 500 cases produced

90 Points, Vinous: “Bright orange-pink.  High-pitched aromas of strawberry, tangerine, iris & peony, with a mineral note in the background. Clean and classically dry, offering tangy red fruit flavors plus echoes of orange peel and savory herbs. Offers good energy and cut.”

 Cottanera 2017 Bianco “Barbazzale”  

95% Catarratto & 5% Viognier from 15-year-old vines in lava-alluvial soil.  Aged sur-lie for 3 months in stainless steel.

91 Points, James Suckling:  “This is a fresh, herbal and discreetly floral white with good depth and a very crisp finish that has some minerality. Drink now.”

90+ Points, The Wine Advocate:  “The 2017 Catarratto Barbazzale (a blend of 95% Catarratto and 5% Viognier) shows enormous precision and an authentic Etna taste profile. The wine is bright and clean with a crystalline straw-gold color, direct aromas and a mouthfeel that is fresh and snappy. If those characteristics appeal to you, as they do to me, I highly recommend this excellent value wine. The wine is fun and rewarding with loads of mineral character.

 Cottanera 2018 Bianco “Barbazzale”  

95% Catarratto & 5% Viognier from 15-year-old vines in lava-alluvial soil.

Aged sur-lie for 3 months in stainless steel.

92 Points, James Suckling:  “This shows a wealth of apricots, loquat, fresh herbs and chamomile. Medium to full body, loads of herbal and floral flavors and an oily, tangy finish.

Cottanera 2018 Etna Bianco 

100% Carricante from 15-20 year old vines planted in ava-alluvial and lava-clayey soil at 720-750 meters.  Fermented and aged on lees for 6 months in stainless steel

92 Points, James Suckling: “Newly trimmed grass springs out from the glass here, joining lemons, limes and Granny Smith apples. Medium to full body, pure acid crunch and a bright finish. Delightful transparency.”

Cottanera 2017 Etna Rosso “Barbazzale”                                 

90% Nerello Mascalese and 10 % Nerello Capuccio – 15 year old vines in lava-alluvial & lava-clay.  Stainless steel fermented with frequent pump-overs and 5 months aging.  No oak.

92 Points, James Suckling:  “Aromas of dried berries, walnuts, dried herbs and spices. Fullbodied, integrated and very fine with ultra-fine tannins. Rich, tight and balanced. A blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio.”

Cottanera 2016 Etna Rosso “Contrada Diciasettesalme”          

100% Nerello Mascalese from 12-year-old vines planted in lava-alluvial soil.  Malolactic fermentation in French oak barrels and aged for 8 months in large oak barrel

92 Points, James Suckling:  “A pure Nerello Mascalese with firm and silky tannins, dark chocolate and spice. Medium to full body, firm & silky tannins and a juicy delicious finish.

Cottanera 2017 Etna Rosso “Contrada Diciasettesalme”          

100% Nerello Mascalese from 12-year-old vines planted in lava-alluvial soil.  Malolactic fermentation in French oak barrels and aged for 8 months in large oak barrel

92 Points, James Suckling:  “this soon opens to reveal wild strawberries, citrus and red peppers. Medium body, firm tannins and a tangy, mineral finish.”

Cottanera 2012 Etna Rosso Riserva “Contrada Zottorinoto”

100% Nerello Mascalese from 60-year-old vines planted in lava-alluvial soil at 750-800 meters.  100% barrel fermented & aged in French oak for 24-months + extended aging in bottle.  Only 166 cases produced.

95 Points, The Wine Advocate:  “A limited edition, single-vineyard, top-shelf wine. The 2012 puts Cottanera’s winemaking moxie to the test. The results show depth, volume and power, with bold aromatic trimmings of blackberry, crème de cassis, balsam herb & dried mint. But the real personality of the bouquet is driven by those distinctive mineral notes of ash and brimstone.  The wine is alive and succulent. This is an excellent, cellar-worthy red wine from Etna.”

 Cottanera 2013 Etna Rosso Riserva “Contrada Zottorinoto”

100% Nerello Mascalese from 60-year-old vines planted in lava-alluvial soil at 750-800 meters.  100% barrel fermented & aged in French oak for 24-months + extended aging in bottle.  Only 166 cases produced.

94 Points, The Wine Advocate:  “The 2013 Etna Rosso Riserva Zottorinoto is a stunning wine that possesses deep inner depth and a profound nature. The wine reveals itself slowly with a first wave of dried fruit and cassis that later yields to darkened spice and campfire ash. The wine’s mineral backbone is prominent and sophisticated, as it should be given the mighty volcanic territory that shaped it. In the mouth, the wine shows a silky and fine texture that should take on more volume and mass as the wine continues its aging evolution.”

In the Napa Valley, we have a wet season and a dry season, and all of our rain comes in a 6-month period between November and May. Some years we get a lot of rain, some years we don’t. This year we got a lot. Now that the rainy season has ended and the weather has warmed up, everyone is hard at work in the vineyards. The shoots are growing like crazy, we are mowing down the waist-high cover crops, and we have three tractors going non-stop. The crop looks excellent, lots of clusters on happy vines. We leased two more small Cabernet Vineyards, one on Mt. Veeder and one in Oak Knoll, so we will have more blending sources for our Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, which is quickly becoming our flagship wine. The Mt. Veeder vineyard is already CCOF certified organic, we will start farming the other new vineyard organically, and we finally convinced our last non-organic fruit-buying source to convert to organic, so we are very excited that for 2019 we will reach our goal of 100% organically farmed fruit!

In other news, we opened our tasting room at our new winery, and are now welcoming visitors every day of the week. Come on by – we’d love to show you around our new place.

We made all of our wine in the new winery last year except our Rosé, with all indigenous fermentations, and everything went great. We’re so happy to finally have the whole process, from farming through to winemaking, under our complete control.

Below is a link to a one-page article on Steve from the current issue of SOMM Journal. It has a little history on some of the early sustainable agricultural efforts that we’ve been involved with over the years.

The Proverbial Radical

{ THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2019

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